Going West: Wild Things

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As we walked towards Carn Llidi, we were surprised to see a little herd of Welsh ponies grazing on the hillside. These hardy and resilient ponies still live a semi-feral life here. They are beautiful creatures and very much a part of the land and its history, having ploughed its fields, carried its warriors and worked in its mines for centuries. It is known that there have been ponies here for well over three and a half thousand years and who knows how much longer before that. At some point in their long history, they were bred with Arabian horses and that bloodline too runs in their veins. I knew of the wild ponies of Snowdonia, a genetically unique group that was decimated in recent years by severe winter weather that wiped out almost half the population, but had not expected to see them at St David’s Head.

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I remember seeing the news story when the last pit ponies were brought up from the mines. Smaller breeds, like Shetlands and the Welsh ponies were preferred as they could go where even mechanisation could not, each hauling thirty tons of coal a day in eight-hour shifts. Ponies were used in the mines from 1750, and the last pit pony was retired only in 1999. I remember too my great-uncle’s stories of them and how they worked underground for years, though some were brought up for a short holiday annually when the mines closed. When they came out into the sunlight, they could not see… after so long in the dark it took them some time to adjust to the daylight. The ponies would be taken underground at four years old and could work, if they survived, until their twenties. In deep shaft mines, they were stabled in the mine itself and cared for by the miners as well as their owners. The management were looking after an asset… the miners for a fellow worker who shared both their labour and the danger. Even in modern times, coal mining was deadly work and there were many stories of how the ponies’ sense of danger helped save their human partners.

My great-uncle took me to meet some of the ponies one day during their annual break. He taught me, a small girl then, how to hold out the apples and the mints that they loved without risking my fingers. To see them grazing, wild in the heather, is a very different thing from seeing their coal-stained coats that no amount of grooming could clean… just like my uncle’s hands. Those, I remember well, large, shapely hands, calloused and strong, yet always tinged with black. The coal dust killed him in the end… a lifetime of breathing it unprotected, just as it must have affected so many of the ponies. It was an unnatural life, away from the fresh air and sunlight, away from the green… and a joy to see them free on the hillside as we climbed.

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Dear Don: Shadow-play…

Dear Don,

The ‘Facing Fear’ weekend proved to be uncannily prophetic… and its location has been in the news a good deal lately, used as an example of the heroism of the willing sacrifice of life and freedom. ‘Willing’ being the operative word…

Interesting how theatricals seem to be cropping up a lot… and that seems to be all you get when you Google ‘golden globe’.

Sculpture, too, seems a recurrent theme, ever since we decided we were not overly interested in terms of our work… since then, it has been, quite rightly, slapping us around the face with the proverbial wet fish. We should have qualified that statement… Especially as we have been dealing in sculpted earth and stone from the start…

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River #midnighthaiku

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Going West: Coetan Arthur

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Arthur’s Quoit came as something of a surprise. The huge neolithic tomb rises from the plateau behind St David’s Head, the angle and ridge on the capstone seeming to shadow the lines of Carn Llidi beyond. The capstone is around twenty feet long and over eight feet wide, supported by a single orthostat that holds the point of the stone around five feet from the ground. At first glance, you assume that somewhere during its five thousand year history, the other two orthostats that would have supported it must have fallen and the earthen mound that covered it been eroded away. There are many such places where this has happened.

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A closer look, though, makes you question that assumption. It is true that there are stones strewn broken on the ground that could have been supporting stones… but the whole thing looks right, just as it is in this place. The contours of the capstone emulate the shape of the hill above far too well for it to be accidental. If the stone were raised on other supports, the visual similarity in form would be lost and we have seen this ‘shadowing’ of the landscape too often to ignore its importance.

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The oddest thing, though, is that the shadowing effect seems even more pronounced from inside the tomb. It is not the first time we have seen such ancient places arranged more for the vision of the dead than of the living. Knowing that the ancestors and their bones played such an important role in the life of the clans, perhaps this is not surprising. Were the tombs really places to bury the dead, hiding them from view… or places that were portals between the realms of life and death, gateways to an Otherworld that mirrors our own? Or perhaps they were places of initiation, where the gates of both life and death were symbolically opened?

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Two journeys, one destination

Steve begins the story of the weekend in Inverness and the subsequent trip to Orkney… at which, sadly, Stuart and I were unable to be present as I await the results of the latest scan…

Steve Tanham's avatarSun in Gemini

I remember listening to T. S. Eliot reading his poem The Four Quartets for the first time. The words held me spellbound:

“We shall not cease from exploration

And the end of all our exploring

Will be to arrive where we started

And know the place for the first time.”

My wife and I had first travelled to Inverness four years ago, we came by rail, en-route to Orkney. A long journey, but we love trains; and being away without the car has a certain ironic freedom…

We stopped at Inverness to change trains for our final destination of the port of Scrabster, the Orkney service harbour of the nearby town of Thurso. Sadly, we only had time for a quick lunch and a walk around the immediate area by the station. I remember looking down the stone-lined street that led deeper into the town and to the river Ness…

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Dear Wen: Shadow-play…

Dear Wen,

Wishing there were more of us is an admirable place to start.

Imagine how many more people and how much more quickly they would have awoken had more of them ventured forth on our ‘Facing Fears’ weekend.

The land has much to teach us.

The Gods and real magic also has a certain ring to it and is probably the actual reason tEntrance to Palais Pallavicini, Josefplatz, Vienna, Austri… | Flickrhose seats were so named, but hey! If the cap fits…

The Loki stone is a far more dynamic and fluid sculpture, more befitting the God’s nature, perhaps, and once bound he is also a candidate for ‘Shadow-dom’.

There is no reason to suspect that the film is anything other than what it purports to be in a traditional, nay almost classic sense, save for the cinematography…

They seem to have sculpted friezes around the ‘Golden Globes’ don’t they. Wars of Independence have an awful lot going for them at the moment.

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Deportment for the soul

Image by ADiamondFellFromTheSky

Image by ADiamondFellFromTheSky

He passed me the disc, about the size of a small dinner plate and quite heavy. My hands were full of things needing to go through to the kitchen. There was only one thing for it, I placed the disc on my head and walked through that way, thinking how the lessons learned when we are younger than we are today still have value and inordinately pleased with myself that I could still do it without effort..

My mother used to tell me about good posture when I was small and it was fun trying to walk around with piles of books balanced on my head. We had to do the same at dance class. We had it in school and in the gym too back then. For my mother, it was about deportment; the way a lady carries the body. For my teachers, the idea was that by developing balance we would be able better able to perform the movements that were required of us with grace and poise. Nowadays, it is simply about good posture and, hunched over a keyboard far too much of the time, I am grateful for those early lessons and still prefer a straight back.

Good posture stays with you. It is not something that you lose like the beauty of dewy skin or the lustre of youthful hair. Something of it remains. Even my great grandmother, her spine bent under the weight of almost ten decades, still held herself well. Those we deem elegant seem to have something in their carriage that stays noticeable for the rest of their lives too, even when the years have erased all outward sign of youth.

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Pensée #midnighthaiku

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Going West: St David’s Head

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It is a beautiful walk along the cliffs towards St David’s Head. The land is covered in an incredible variety of wildflowers, from the pink pompoms of thrift to the tall spires of foxgloves. The starry flowers of sedum nestle in every nook and cranny and little spotted orchids drift through the short, sturdy grass. It is a gardener’s paradise, especially on a glorious summer afternoon.

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The sea was a changing palette of blue and turquoise, clear as glass and sparkling in the sunlight. I am a northern lass and the shores of my home county wear grey like a faded memory. Where I now live, the sea is simply too far away, so for me the day was a delight. Even the rocks wear the ochres and green of lichen; colour is everywhere. It does the heart good just to be in such a landscape, as if Nature responds to need with her entire armoury and a refusal to let the grey pall of the workaday world remain. You cannot help but be present in face of such beauty.

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The area is rich in wildlife too, both on land and in the sea and sky. Gulls fly above and below as you walk the cliff path, wild Welsh ponies graze on the hillside and there are often seals and porpoises in the bay. I have seen seals here before, but sadly, no amount of looking would reveal them this time.

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Dear Don: ‘lunatic fringe’…

Dear Don,

As a proud member of the lunatic fringe, anything I might say would be complimentary.

Seriously, if thinking for yourself… even being at a tangent to reality… gains you that epithet, then I just wish there were more of us…

Not so ‘early’ with the theatre tickets… I’m not that old and I have fond memories of being ‘up in the gods’. Oddly, I’ve sat in the front row of the stalls, the dress circle and, occasionally, in the posh boxes… but there is a real magic about standing so high above the stage and getting a completely different perspective of the whole theatre. You can see why those ‘seats’ got their name.

No, we would never had seen the Middleton Crosses had our ‘third’ not tried the door… we would probably never have bothered to try again and we would have missed so much. It was our third visit too… It is a very different artistic style, though, from our Loki. Much ‘stiffer’.

I keep trying to watch the film…but at the moment, I never seem to get a moment. If I’m not out, the ruddy phone is ringing… I have a craving for quiet spaces and no phone reception…

I did, however, have a look at the sculptures you mentioned. One of the golden balls seems to be part of a montage suggesting that science upholds the world.

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