I am surprised that my son continues to allow me to stop the car outside churches when we are out and about. “I won’t be above a few minutes…” invariably gives him time for a snooze, but on this occasion, a few weeks ago, I was almost as good as my word. It was the swiftest of raids… no forethought, no research, just an opportunistic descent of the off-chance that this time, it would be open.
We had stopped there one day on our wandering, Stuart and I, to no avail. I have tried on several occasions, only to find the door securely locked. I honestly did not expect to get in. But, on this occasion, I was lucky.
I’ve always liked the look of St Mary’s. I love the way the door, clock and window are set into the fifteenth century tower, completely out of line and how they reflect so many periods of history. I like the old gravestones leaning at odd angles that shelter beneath the yews. But I had no idea what I might find inside… if anything… so when the door yielded, I was elated.
It is always an adventure opening the door of a church, especially when you have no knowledge of what it might contain. St Mary’s at East Claydon is a simple place… no fuss, no grand tombs, but obviously old enough to have stories to tell.
The church stands on top of Sion Hill, on the edge of the village, in a space that feels enclosed and protected. It has stood here for a long time. The earliest known church on the site, a simple, single-celled building, dates from the twelfth century although its first recorded rector was Richard Hanley in 1218.
At that time there were no side chapels, no aisles, just the single space. The tall nave is probably twelfth century with the south chapel being added, perhaps in the early years of the thirteenth century.
The arch to the chapel is decorated with a carved sawtooth design that was already dated by then, which suggests it may be even older. The piscina in the chapel, though, is thirteenth century and the deep, lancet windows really give a sense of its age.
The piscina was used to give the holy water back to the building, rather than letting it leave the walls where it might be used for shady purposes in folk medicine and wise-craft…or witchcraft. It is for this reason that many early fonts still bear the traces of the locks that were used to secure their covers.
The octagonal font at St Mary’s though, looks rather sleek and modern… yet it is fifteenth century. It was at this time the tower was added and it would appear that a good few modifications were done around this time.
The fourteenth century chancel is very simple, adorned with flowers and one stained glass window of the Nativity, dating from 1899. It was designed by Mary Lowndes and made by James Powell and Sons.
This is another of the very many churches restored by Sir George Gilbert Scott. Of all the Victorian restorers, he seems to have retained a feeling for history. In spite of the passion for heavy design and curlicues that was fashionable at the time, his restorations managed to preserve something of the original simplicity of the building… especially in this area, so close to his birthplace.
There are little touches of personal history from the villagers too, from embroideries on the walls, to the Mother’s Union banner.
…and from the memorials to the upper end of the social ladder…
to the names of all classes inscribed in the Roll of Honour. Once again I am struck by the fact that this short list of names represents a large number of lives from such a tiny village.
I would have been glad to have got into this church for the simple peace and light it held, but it did have a couple of treasures to find too. On either side of the chancel arch, there are carved corbels showing winged figures, some seven hundred years old.
The only description of them that I can find is that they show ‘two angels and a devil’… which is odd, as there are four faces… and none of them accord particularly well with the modern, idealised form of angelic beings. They all look happy enough though, and they were the icing on the cake for me… well worth a visit, all on their own. I just had to wonder if the other church, just down the road, would be open too… and what my son would say if I stopped the car again…
BEAUTIFUL, Sue! And how interesting, about the piscinas… I’m wishing I could ride along with you to tour these old churches 🙂
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There is so much to learn in these old places 🙂
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I imagine so–it would be hard to just stop for a “few minutes” 🙂
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It is… but I can always go back 😉
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That’s a blessing–I don’t have good access, nor much in the way of historic sites to visit.
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There’s plenty of history around here, though most of it is medieval onwards. I have a preference for prehistory 😉
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I would be very interested in almost anything medieval 🙂
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There is plenty from that era to see… so much it barely gets noticed, yet we live with it all around 🙂
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I just have this feeling that you can “sense” it in the air–clouds of poetic and arts inspiration 🙂
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Yes, I’d agree with you…you can. 🙂
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🙂
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Thank you for sharing!
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When I saw the puctures of the inside, I thought it looked a most perfect example of what I see when I imagine an English church. Glad you got to go in and take photos!
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It is very typical of what we find in many village churches. Apart from the carvings, which were most unusual 🙂
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I laughed a bit at the lock on the holy water wall – I thought that was silly, but I guess to them it was serious!
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Oh yes… witches were burned at the stake or ducked till drowned….and the stealing of holy water for sorcery was seen as a very real threat.
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Fabulous interior Sue… definitely worth the wait.. hugsx
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Simple and beautiful… and those figures are amazing 🙂 xx
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What a fabulous church, Sue.
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It is a rather good one 🙂
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The love they put into these churches–amazing. I can feel their devotion.
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It is very much a living thing and heartwarming to experience.
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Oh – that’s a beaut; irresistible…but, then, most of them are. I see what you mean about the font; it does look modern. I bet you feel rewarded. And I bet Son does a similar thing in the fullness of time… 🙂
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Son has been dragged round a few, but as he is unable to get around without the wheelchair, he has a perfect excuse 😉
It is a lovely little church. I almost passed up the font, but it felt older than it looks. Restored, of course, but ‘right’ anyway
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Such a find and magically this time it’s open 💜💜💜
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Sometimes, you just have to wait…in this case, a year or two 😉 x
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No time at all in the scheme of things 🤭
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Exactly 🙂
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😉
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Fab post Sue with some great ancient discoveries. The stained glass is gorgeous. ❤
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We are so lucky around here to have so many old churches…and most of them stand open ❤
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Rich with history Sue ❤
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Very much so ❤
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Heh, heh, heh … Son is probably used to it by now. 🙂
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He’s getting there 😉
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Your church visits are the highlights of my day. This one was a treasure!
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It was indeed a real find, Jennie. I loved those carvings!
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🙂
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