Lucky

The art of Thierry Arnault. Paris c1981

The art of Thierry Arnault. Paris c1981

There are few photographs of my years in Paris. The camera I had back then was minimal, film expensive to process and anyway, postcards did a far better job that I could ever do. It doesn’t matter. Back then it was all about art. Not mine, of course… It would be twenty years before I picked up brush and courage and laid them on a canvas. No, it was all about the Place du Tertre.

I haven’t been back for a very long time… over a quarter of a century has passed and I cannot say how much has changed there, and how much remains the same. But there are things that remain fresh in our memories; bright and sparkling.

For me, Paris was a time of intense emotion, friendships so deep they stripped away illusion and, until the last couple of years, the happiest I have ever been. Some things we don’t forget; times, places, memories that stay in that special corner in our hearts where treasures are kept.

And there was Paris 1981.

And of course, I still have the Diaries.

I had been to Paris once, years before, and fallen in love with the place. Of all the fabulous buildings and museums two places had stuck in my mind and felt, in some indescribable way, like home. One was the Rue Mouffetard, a little backstreet off the tourist track, just behind the Pantheon, where I had wandered very early one morning. The narrow street seemed timeless; archetypically Parisian. The aroma of fresh bread and coffee hung in the morning and a tramp slept beneath the pages of Le Monde in a doorway, clutching the green glass of an empty wine bottle to his chest.

The other was the Place du Tertre, the artist’s square in Montmartre and a painted canvas on a rickety easel. The picture showed another bearded tramp wearing a cap pulled low against the night; just the grizzled face illuminated in the darkness by the match he was holding to half a cigarette.

So when I was lucky enough to go back to work there, Montmartre was the first place I headed for, walking right across Paris as if I knew the way in search of a memory.

I found the square and somehow, incredibly, soon found myself amongst friends; mainly amongst the resident artists who stayed there all year round and took their art seriously. Others came and went chasing the concentration of summer tourists and francs. Those I came to know had made it their home. I modelled for them and fed them when they were broke, and when they sold a painting, we partied. They were some of the best friends you could wish for and we took care of each other.

The bar on the corner of the square, Au Clairon des Chasseurs, was our meeting place. I could arrive for coffee on a Saturday morning and still be there in the wee small hours of Sunday. Just talking. My friends would come in, one after another to warm their hands and as one left another would arrive. Back then, everyone went to Montmartre. I met actors, writers, diplomats and aristocracy. I knew the tramps and the prostitutes who worked there. For all the surface commercialism the tourists saw, there was still a true Bohemian life under the surface and they invited me in. Everyone, it seemed, found their way there. Mini, Tahar and Thierry the waiters joined the conversations as we discussed and debated just about every subject under the sun and then went further, delving into the mysteries of the inner universe. All nations, all languages, all faiths and perspectives met there and the only rivalries I ever saw were in jest.

It was an education sans pareil. From a mousey little creature with neither confidence nor any great opinion of her worth I slowly opened up to life and laughter and began to see that perhaps I might have some kind of value after all. You could not hide in Montmartre. It demanded that you be real… warts and all.

The first Christmas in Paris stands out for many reasons. I had been ‘adopted’ and nicknamed ‘la Tomate’ for my penchant for wearing bright red, or they called me ‘Yorkshire’ in heavily accented tones. I really felt I had come home.

My closest friend was Tom Coffield, a brilliant Glaswegian artist. He was a small, wiry Scot with a deep love of Burns and a gift for holding up the mirror of the soul. We had met after I had been sitting on the kerb talking philosophy with Big Boris. He handed me a portrait he had sketched, but I wasn’t buying. “An I’m no’ sellin’!” said Tom as he joined me on the kerb. We must have talked for six hours straight.

Sketch by Thomas Coffield, Paris 1981

Sketch by Thomas Coffield, Paris 1981

We became firm friends. He was my conscience, mirror and confidante, and he was my teacher in the fine art of living. He tore strips off me when one of the artists developed an unrequited passion and taught me a new slant on responsibility. And he taught me to laugh for no reason except joy. He stripped away every illusion I could hide behind and made me see myself as real. We spent most of the summer talking, yet the dour Scot was a few years older than I and I was never quite sure what he thought of me. Except the courage. He told me I had courage. I’d never considered that before and it was a new slant on the way I saw myself.

He promised me a proper portrait, but it never did materialise. Each time he tried to paint me he saw something new, and knowing me so well he tried to capture it all. But that Christmas he gave me something better. He gave me a memory.

It was snowing and Paris is magical in the moonlight. We bumped into Thierry Arnault at dinner chez Denise on the Rue Lepic. Tom insisted that Thierry show me his studio and his work, in a tiny garret next door. Thierry, however, seemed more interested in introducing me to his cats, Snoopy and Pigalle. Mini at the Clairon had presented me with a bottle of Chateauneuf for Christmas and it accompanied us all to Montparnasse where the layers of this Bohemian world came together to party.

It was, according to my diary, a wonderful evening. I must have written the entry as soon as I got home. There was dancing and song. “I have no idea what possessed me to join Vince in ‘Ilkley Moor bah’t ‘at’ to drown out Tom’s Gaelic. I may be obliged to plead the fifth… not amendment, but Chateauneuf.” “They decided to rename me ‘La Princesse’ with great ceremony and so much laughter!”

Tom kissed me a Merry Christmas. I was leaving next day for England. He told me to come back soon as I was loved by many and would be missed. It was the first time in my life that I felt I really mattered in the world. One is born into a family, but those who find and cherish us for who we are, they are very special. My diary records, “ …and that was a good day. So many friends I have made! I am a lucky woman.”

Tom also gave me a Christmas gift that night. It hangs on my wall today close to that very first sketch he made the day we met. The pen and ink drawing shows the Clairon and all my friends. Tom is the small guy with the beret on the left talking to Monsieur Steve and old Marcel who loved the light in my hair… I am listening to Big Boris somewhere below his beard. Sam Yeo, Mini, Thierry, the dogs and the ‘no credit’ sign…. Even the pigeons on the glass roof. The tall figure of Alain, with his fiery eyes…but that is another story. Once upon a time, I knew them all.

It still stands… I am a lucky woman.

Au Clairon des Chasseurs, Paris. Thomas Coffield 1981

Au Clairon des Chasseurs, Paris. Thomas Coffield 1981

About Sue Vincent

Sue Vincent is a Yorkshire-born writer and one of the Directors of The Silent Eye, a modern Mystery School. She writes alone and with Stuart France, exploring ancient myths, the mysterious landscape of Albion and the inner journey of the soul. Find out more at France and Vincent. She is owned by a small dog who also blogs. Follow her at scvincent.com and on Twitter @SCVincent. Find her books on Goodreads and follow her on Amazon worldwide to find out about new releases and offers. Email: findme@scvincent.com.
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45 Responses to Lucky

  1. Wonderful, rich memories, Sue. Thank you for sharing them.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. gmvasey says:

    Awesome…. Enjoyed that immensely, even a tear or two at the end…. and the word tramp… been a longtime since heard that word….

    Liked by 2 people

  3. TanGental says:

    On my honeymoon in Paris in May 1984 I saw the Place Du Tertre for the first time. My first time there. Captivating. There’s a moody photo of me regarding one painting. I also have the classic tourist cartoon from that visit, ‘charcoal on nose’ as my wife calls it, given how prominent is my proboscis. Ah how easy it was to be in love and fall in love again in that little tree lined square. Thanks

    Liked by 1 person

  4. willowdot21 says:

    What wonderful memories Sue, it was like being transported back there. Those wonderful people, life teachers. Beautiful souls, did you ever see or hear from them again. The painting of you is exquisite it has truly captured your soul. The wonder drawing of l your friends, well that’s a true capture of that time. Thank you for taking us back with you 💜

    Liked by 1 person

  5. jenanita01 says:

    Magical memories, Sue… I loved Paris and intend to go back there one of these days…

    Like

  6. buffalopound says:

    What a vivid picture of your life you paint with your words, Sue. It really must have been a wonderful experience for you. Thank you.

    Like

  7. V.M.Sang says:

    Both my husband and I consider Paris to be our very favourite city in the world. Sadly we’ve been unable to visit this year, but we have been going nearly every year for the past several years.In 2018 and 19 we went just before Christmas. It was magical. We went to a concert in the Louvre one year and to one in Notre Dame the other.
    It must have been wonderful to have lived there and to have made so many friends.

    Like

    • Sue Vincent says:

      I was such a gift to be able to be part of the city… and Monthmatre is still its heart for me. But I never got the cahnace to go back, One day… if I outlive the covid restrictions…

      Like

  8. Mary Smith says:

    A wonderful post, Sue. You are a lucky woman to have those memories of a special time spent with very special people.

    Like

    • Sue Vincent says:

      You set me off with your journals, Mary… and I was also on the quest for the name of that Vicjy restaurant I mentioned… the one the chemo-fog had erased from my brain. I didn’t find it… until I had read in French for an hour… then it came back… the Milor’ 🙂

      Like

  9. Darlene says:

    What amazing memories. You are indeed lucky. These experiences are what make you the wonderful person you are today. I love the sketches.

    Like

  10. Helen Jones says:

    This is utterly beautiful, Sue. You are indeed lucky, and I love love love the artwork, as well as your descriptions of life in Paris (one of my favourite cities in the world). It’s so wonderfully you, another layer to your lovely soul xx

    Like

  11. memadtwo says:

    A person is lucky indeed who has good friends. I’m smiling at your memories too. (K)

    Like

  12. besonian says:

    Fabulous, Sue. An experience that comes to few and of which you obviously made the very most. Beautifully described too – right from the heart.

    Liked by 1 person

  13. “It was the first time in my life that I felt I really mattered in the world.” What a wonderful feeling. You were (and are) indeed lucky in the grand scheme of things. ❤

    Like

  14. Oh, those memories… Thanks for sharing, Sue!

    Like

  15. dgkaye says:

    Thank you for sharing beautiful memories Sue and love the sketch! ❤

    Like

  16. Eliza Waters says:

    Wonderful memories, Sue! Youth, full of yearning and possibilites. Joni Mitchell sang a song that just popped into my head and seems to fit: “I was a free (wo)man in Paris, I felt unfettered and alive…”

    Like

  17. Jim Borden says:

    that sounds like such a special time in your life; how lucky that you kept a diary of it.

    Now I want to go back to Paris; my first trip there was a couple of years ago for a long weekend, In February, and it didn’t really impress me. I know such an impression is in the minority, but I was comparing it to London, which I had fallen in love with.

    Like

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