Rooted in the land – The long way home

Kilburn White Horse by Andy Beecroft for (CCL)

Kilburn White Horse by Andy Beecroft for (CCL)

I am not entirely sure whether it was simply an opportunistic trip… as we were already so far north… or whether it was designed to ensure I didn’t cry as I left the moors. The one time we had been going even further north was the only time I’ve managed to stay dry eyed. I usually drive away through a blur of tears and for some unknown and illogical reason, this time had felt like a longer farewell. Whatever was going on, it worked and I was able to point the car northwards and still see the road… more or less…

We had booked into the New Inn at Cropton for a night, not far from Pickering and the North York moors. First, however, we had to get there… and a road closure conveniently forced us to take the backroads. This suited me fine… we avoided the towns and were able to drive through some glorious Yorkshire dales. The plan was to get an early start back the following morning after finally seeing the carved stones at Middleton church… a collection of the most amazing Viking and Anglian crosses. We have tried before and failed… this time we were more hopeful. Surely a church that advertises itself as being open daily wouldn’t be closed twice in a row!

It was tea-time and we were hungry. For the past couple of days we had been talking about fish and chips… but it was Sunday. We had been up on the moors since before dawn, with just a brief return for breakfast and no lunch, but there was no chance of a fish shop being open on a Sunday. Not even the pubs were open at this time on the roads we had travelled! Except, curiously enough, the White Horse fish shop and restaurant in Thirsk which we spotted as we drove through the town… right before I pulled in and parked. Fish, chips, mushy peas, bread and butter and a large pot of tea… It doesn’t get much better than that when you are ravenous.

It fortified us for the last leg of the drive. We passed the enormous Kilburn White Horse on the Hambledon Hills. At some 314 feet long and 228 feet high, it is the largest such hill figure in Britain. It is still only a baby historically though, being cut in 1857 by Thomas Taylor. On a clear day it can be seen from almost 30 miles away. I wasn’t looking… I was busy. The road here climbs from the Vale to the crest of the hills and it doesn’t waste any effort of being gentle. From Sutton-under-Whitestonecliffe, a village with the longest place name in England, the notorious Sutton Bank climbs around 500ft in approximately three quarters of a mile… with a hairpin bend thrown in for good measure and very little between a car and the drop down the bank. It is one of the steepest trunk roads in the country. I have driven it in ice and snow… on the odd occasions it hasn’t been closed… but it has to be said that the biggest threat comes from other drivers and the heavy goods vehicles that crawl up at a snail’s pace.

There is a lot of history here, ancient to modern. The most recent is the perhaps the Sutton Bank Body, found in the nettles; killed in suspicious circumstances and still unidentified after many years, she is buried in an unnamed grave in Malton. Hers will not be the only story of life and death these hills have held, as this is the site of a massive hillfort dating back two and a half thousand years. For me, it marks the threshold between the valley and the high places and the last stretch of the journey.

Next morning, we were foiled again at the church in Middleton. The door was locked, no sign of a keyholder and little hope given by the lone woman walking beyond the gate. Once more we could simply admire the Norman tower, with its blocked doorway and 8thC cross head set into the masonry. It had been a long way to come for nothing… so we had to find something. As the rain began we made a decision. We would try the church at Helmsley… maybe that would prove to be open? We could only hope…

Nick Birds SE Ilkley 2015 uffington avebury cropton Helmsley 004

About Sue Vincent

Sue Vincent is a Yorkshire-born writer and one of the Directors of The Silent Eye, a modern Mystery School. She writes alone and with Stuart France, exploring ancient myths, the mysterious landscape of Albion and the inner journey of the soul. Find out more at France and Vincent. She is owned by a small dog who also blogs. Follow her at and on Twitter @SCVincent. Find her books on Goodreads and follow her on Amazon worldwide to find out about new releases and offers. Email:
This entry was posted in Churches, Rooted in the Land, travel and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

38 Responses to Rooted in the land – The long way home

  1. blondieaka says:

    So pleased you got your fish & chips and on a Sunday 🙂


  2. reocochran says:

    This stoned in doorway is beautiful in its varied stones and in the meaning of the building itself, Sue.


  3. mukul chand says:

    Very interesting post. Great Pics too.


  4. Oh gosh … It has been ages that I ate fish & chips … That was like what, more more than fifteen years ago. 😛


  5. More excellent writing. It’s a sad reflection on our times that church doors are so often closed


  6. jenanita01 says:

    Reblogged this on Anita & Jaye Dawes and commented:
    something quite poignant about that sealed up doorway…


  7. Oooh I do love fish and chips with good old mushy peas. What a shame that the church was closed again, it must have been pretty frustrating.


  8. ksbeth says:

    what a lovely place – isn’t it amazing how places can bring on such rushes of emotion? and the fish and chips …


  9. Only a few years ago, I wouldn’t have known the places you’re talking about here, but my partner was living at Easingwold when we met and her son lives at Malton. I can’t say I know the area like the back of my hand, but the Kilburn White Horse is a very familiar sight and I can vouch for the treachery of Sutton Bank. Didn’t know about the body, but I suspect Lizzie will. Considering the limited time I’ve spent in that neck of the woods, I’m surprised at how nostalgic this post made me feel. Thanks, Sue


  10. It’s so fascinating to me that you have historical structures dating back to the 8th century, no less twenty-five hundred years. The stone door is beautiful. It must take you back in time. 🙂


  11. Eliza Waters says:

    Such antiquity that surrounds you! Of course, we have nothing like it. Is there someone you could contact to arrange a visit to Middleton church the next time you pass through? Such a shame you were foiled again!


  12. I used to work in Tockwith nr. York and had a good view of the White Horse from my office window 😊


  13. D.G.Kaye says:

    At least you got the fish and chips! That doorway in the stone is magnificent. It’ shape gave off an impression to me of the outlined shape of a knight’s armour. Don’t ask me why, lol. 🙂


  14. I’ve always wondered about the white horse. Who created it and why. Is it just decorative? Or has it a deeper, older meaning. Just wondering.


  15. Never mind. I just remembered the story.

    Liked by 1 person

  16. At least this was a successful day in some ways. Good pictures. 🙂


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.